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Every exercise ranked by research, by lifters and by results. Find what’s S-tier for your goal, then train it.

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General training information, not medical advice. If something hurts, stop and see a professional.
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Explore/Climbing

Hangboard Hang

Also called Max hang, Fingerboard

OtherIsolationTakes some practice
Front
Back
Primary Secondary

Works

Forearms

Also upper back & lats

You need

Hangboard

Hangboard setup →
How to do itPicture · 3 steps
  1. 1Half-crimp or open hand on a 20 mm edge
  2. 2Hang about 10 seconds, rest fully
  3. 3Add weight before shrinking the edge

Most common mistake

Ramping up too fast. Finger tendons adapt slower than muscle.

Watch a demo
S
For climbing
#1 of 24
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Research
86
Published rubric
Lifters
—
0/10 ratings
Results
Soon
From the app
How lifters rate itBe the first
S
A
B
C
D
F
Why research scores it 86
Transfer · 45%5/5
Injury protection · 30%4/5
Practicality · 25%4/5

Finger strength is the clearest strength marker of climbing level. Build it gradually.

How scores work

Machine taken? Swap to

  • SPull-UpBodyweight
  • AWeighted Pull-UpBodyweight
  • ADead HangBodyweight
  • BAb Wheel RolloutOther

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